Part One: Installing a Metal Roof Instead of Shingles

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There are several methods for installing a metal roof. Nonetheless, I endorse this strategy.

To begin, peel off all shingles and remove any nails sticking up on a traditional shingle roof. This can be accomplished with a roofing spade. You’ll need a smooth, flat surface to work on. The harder it is to walk on a steeper roof pitch. Select the best residential metal roof.

I’m presuming you’re familiar with basic carpentry. After cleaning all trash from the roof, the first step is to place #30 felt paper to cover the entire top. Begin at the lower corner of the top and run horizontally, leaving approximately 14 inches of the bottom edge hanging off the roof’s edge. I use a staple gun or slap stapler and 3/8 to 12-inch staples to connect paper. Staple the report every 12 to 16 inches on each side.

When that run is finished, begin a fresh run just above it, allowing roughly a 2-inch overlap. Most of the time, lines on the paper will guide you; overlap with the first line. Continue in this manner until you reach the roof’s peak. Overlap valleys and ridges by 2 to 3 feet. It doesn’t have to be pretty because it won’t be seen. However, cover all roof surfaces to prevent moisture from entering.

Now comes the critical part: starting the first metal sheet straight, which is how I do it. Each metal roofing piece has a lap edge and a lapped edge. The lap edge has a 14-inch flat spot before the rising ridge, whereas the lap edge does not. Therefore, always start with the lapped edge facing the opposite direction so that when you attach the second piece, the lap edge fits snuggly over the lapped edge for support.

To begin, place the first piece of metal about 1 to 2 inches from the roof’s peak, depending on how you measured it. I prefer to leave about 34 of an inch hanging over the bottom so water can run into the gutters. Both sides should be the same size and flush with the outer edge of the nose board running up the roof edge.

Now proceed down to the other end of the roof and mark a line the same distance from the peak. Next, draw a line from the top of the panel to the line you just marked. This will be the line along which you will align the top of the panels. Slide your next meeting into place, top to the chalked line and bottom to the preceding panel’s edge. I usually place a couple of screws near the panel’s top, just outside the metal ridges.

Then, around 6 inches from the bottom of the board, screw in 2 or 3 screws to secure it. (These should be measured to ensure consistency. Continue in this manner until you reach the end of the roof. The final piece will almost certainly need to be cut to fit. You can use a rock blade in a circular saw or a pair of tin snips, but wear thick leather gloves. It is nearly hard to install a metal roof without nicking it. If cutting around vent pipes or vents is required, these cuts must be as exact and tight as possible. Special boots for fitting over vent pipes should be available from your metal supplier. These are self-explanatory.

When I finish one side of the roof, I usually screw it down. However, if it is particularly windy, you can do this as you go. Screws are placed 2 feet apart vertically and to the right of the ridges if traveling left to right (ridges on ordinary metal roofs are approximately 9 inches apart, place screws about 12 inches out from the bank) or opposite the lapping spine. You can use a chalk line to ensure your screw rows are straight. This has to be done horizontally. When this side is entirely screwed down, repeat on the opposite side of the roof.

You are now ready to install the closures and ridge cap. A closure is a neoprene foam that keeps moisture and insects out of the ridge cap. First, measure the breadth of your ridge cap and divide the difference between the ridge and pop lines (Chaulk lines) on either side. In other words, if your ridge cap is 10 inches wide, draw a line 5 inches down from the peak on both sides.

Following the instructions correctly, you should have 2 to 4 inches of metal above the popped line.

Lay your closure strips approximately 12 inches above the line on both roof sides. In the end, they will interlock. Finish by trimming the excess. Next, place your ridge cap over the closures, staying on the popped lines for trueness. Install a screw through the lid into a ridge on the metal roofing (not in the flat); you’ll install a screw roughly every 9 inches apart into every hill on both sides; cut the last ridge to fit.

Read also: How to pick a Plumber


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